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CX-60 Problems

165748 Views 1439 Replies 110 Participants Last post by  Chopperbob
Well the all new CX-60 has been released in EU and UK and soon Australia etc.

As there is no sub forum or specific dedicated CX-60 Forum URL (IMO there should be as the CX-70 is not the same car) there have been a number of production issues on release with this model.

1) There was a stop sale related to the non production install @ Mazda Japan factory of a 20 AMP Safety Fuse in rear of trunk in related to cars main Battery in CX-60 PHEV, hopefully ALL should have been rectified before being sold to customers with the installation of a 20 AMP Fuse module.
Electrical wiring Cable Wire Electrical supply Auto part


2) All Shock Absorbers front and rear and the Front and Rear Sway Bars were installed @ Mazda Factory with not ideal specifications resulting of a bumpy wallowing ride comfort on undulating roads, and on paved roads a hard feel inside cabin resulting in unstable ride, The fix is to renew all shocks and sway bars front and rear.

3) Cars Infotainment System (Mazda Connect) on initial production shipment (about 300 cars) had out of specification Firmware Version 12006 was installed and requires updating to correct CMU_7000C0A-EU07_14004.kwi firmware.
Again this should have been updated by the selling Mazda Dealer, however I have already been contacted by an owner in Europe where his Mazda Connect was not updated. I subsequently on his request supplied him with correct file 14004 with full update instructions (very easy), you WILL need a USB C Flash Drive preferably as small as you can get below 32GB. (do not use USB A to C Adapter).

To find out what version of Firmware for your Mazda Connect is in your CX-60 do the following..
1. Turn the ignition to ACC or to ON.
2. Select ”Settings” on the Home screen.
3. Select “System Setting”.
4. Select “System Information”.
5. Select “Version Information”.
6. See 'System Software'
Version Number like 12004 is revealed, it should be 14004 or higher, if it is lower than 14004 then you can update it.

Happy to help owners who need clarification, please privately message me in regard to Mazda Connect Update File as they can not be posted within any forum. Message me by clicking on my Avatar here and then Message or Start Conversation and click on that with your request.
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Today I drove to some parts of Lake district (UK) and while I was in M6 where some parts of the road wasn't smooth, it was a horrible experience. The road noise was really loud, and sometimes I had to hold my steering really tight. Also I had to correct steering myself a lot. I could feel vibration on seats, steering and I don't know if this is normal or not.
Yeah. Probably it was lucky Saturday.

I have installed tester on the battery. Showed 12.6V with car off on bluetooth app.
Of course every time with warning - battery low.

Battery is on the right side of car but a little bit hidden. It is easy to get ,,+'' but you have to remove battery to get ,,-''. Other idea is to disconnect negative (-) wire connected to the right side of car. Thick black one going from battery to painted side.

We decided to follow Bart110 (y) informations and we disconnected minus wire - so car was without power. As my father is mechanic for 30 years, he has at garage profesional charger and a lot of experience. As we realized that battery is S95 Yuasa, charger was connected and set, car was disconnected for c.a two hours. Do not close a key!! :)

And warning is removed!!! I have traveled with about 15 full stops and warning never appears!!!

What is interesting. Now bluetooth meter is showing 12.4V on battery, with no warning, after all day of short trips voltage is lower than before with no warnings.

So, we can assume that car is so smart that remember battery performance, long time off due to transportation and all etc. lowered battery some level and car was looked for that old one. Normally every day car has ability to observe battery performance day by day.

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I have realized it before today battery warning repair, I had three options for Reaction on speed limit sign - Off / Manual and Auto. Auto disappeared ! :cry:
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So the solution is 2 hours charging when the car is disconnected from battery?
Today I drove to some parts of Lake district (UK) and while I was in M6 where some parts of the road wasn't smooth, it was a horrible experience. The road noise was really loud, and sometimes I had to hold my steering really tight. Also I had to correct steering myself a lot. I could feel vibration on seats, steering and I don't know if this is normal or not.
In my time with the PHEV, yes thats how it was. Road noise is a terrible feature of the CX60 (hence my plans for extensive sound proofing). Although steering wheel vibrations not so much other than when the ICE recharging happens- it might be worth having your camber and tracking checked, you'll be able to do that locally at a tyre shop or somewhere like ATS.

The steering issue has been reported loads - I didn't have this problem, but others definitely did and I've driven a loaner CX60 that definitely did, some journalists have commented on it too.
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Yeah. Probably it was lucky Saturday.

I have installed tester on the battery. Showed 12.6V with car off on bluetooth app.
Of course every time with warning - battery low.

Battery is on the right side of car but a little bit hidden. It is easy to get ,,+'' but you have to remove battery to get ,,-''. Other idea is to disconnect negative (-) wire connected to the right side of car. Thick black one going from battery to painted side.

We decided to follow Bart110 (y) informations and we disconnected minus wire - so car was without power. As my father is mechanic for 30 years, he has at garage profesional charger and a lot of experience. As we realized that battery is S95 Yuasa, charger was connected and set, car was disconnected for c.a two hours. Do not close a key!! :)

And warning is removed!!! I have traveled with about 15 full stops and warning never appears!!!

What is interesting. Now bluetooth meter is showing 12.4V on battery, with no warning, after all day of short trips voltage is lower than before with no warnings.

So, we can assume that car is so smart that remember battery performance, long time off due to transportation and all etc. lowered battery some level and car was looked for that old one. Normally every day car has ability to observe battery performance day by day.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have realized it before today battery warning repair, I had three options for Reaction on speed limit sign - Off / Manual and Auto. Auto disappeared ! :cry:
Yes the 12V reset function.

The black cable you speak of is the Earth bond.

It did reset it for me also but then when the battery dropped in charge, it appeared again. I will try again today as its been a month since I last did it! Thanks for the heads up.

I'm wondering if we need to push for new batteries from a different brand - however I do know other 12V Warning Diesel owners have had new batteries and it didn't cure the problem, so this definitely is one solution and may work for some, but it may not work for all.

Will report back.
So the solution is 2 hours charging when the car is disconnected from battery?
Yes. It is something like simulating of battery change. Removing power is changing, charging battery is changing a voltage so battery for a car is treated like new.

Now, after night is still with no warning. :)
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In my time with the PHEV, yes thats how it was. Road noise is a terrible feature of the CX60 (hence my plans for extensive sound proofing). Although steering wheel vibrations not so much other than when the ICE recharging happens- it might be worth having your camber and tracking checked, you'll be able to do that locally at a tyre shop or somewhere like ATS.

The steering issue has been reported loads - I didn't have this problem, but others definitely did and I've driven a loaner CX60 that definitely did, some journalists have commented on it too.
I will add it to my issues list then. I've a long list for my dealer and it's getting bigger 😕
I will add it to my issues list then. I've a long list for my dealer and it's getting bigger 😕
The road noise is something you can make a fair reduction in yourself by either throwing a few quid at it, or doing some DIY. The dealer will do the doors, the boot and rear wheel arches you can do yourself fairly easily, and then its really all the seats out of the car and the carpet up to do the floorplan.

The only difficult area is the transmission tunnel, I may leave that in fear of breaking stuff for removal of the centre console etc.

Im using this stuff, and the dealer is removing the Mazda stuff and doing the entire inside of the doors for me. The rest I will use in the boot and see what results it yields from there.

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lol the bouncing? (theres no translate feature on the video so not sure what they are saying)
Thanks for this absolutely useless comparison between a 200.000 Euro G63 AMG (and by the way, Mercedes started to produce the G series in 1972, improving it over and over again, and this one has been prepared by the house tuner AMG) and a 55.000 Euro Mazda CX-60. Moreover, looking at the video (the Series has always fascinated me!) I fear that most of the bouncing was caused by the driver taking the rear of the CX-60 over a small bump.

Anyway, I have found this video to be more instructive and I think it might be reassuring for the average CX-60 owner:


The Italian CX-60 is actually doing quite well on a wet circuit and scores averagely (for an SUV) on a dry one. On my CX-60 the damper job done a few weeks ago made the ride almost perfect for a 2000+ kg SUV.

Some forum members continue not to believe this. Anyway, and not surprisingly, one of the contributors to the CX70 Forum scores almost 600 posts out of a total of 1.500, an incredible feature, as he continuously inform us very selectively about his disappointment with two (2) CX-60s.

Buying an X3 might indeed be THE solution. The owners of a BMW G01 are truly looking forward to welcome on their forum somebody as productive and witty as our top complainer. A total of almost 350 threads, many of them regarding problems that can be found on their brand new X3s and X4s (BMW X3 (G01) / X4 (G02) Forum - Page 349 - XBimmers | BMW X3 Forum), but not much discussion around the single issues.

In fact, quickly running through the threads, I came to the conclusion that BMW G01 owners seem to be longing for a peer that is assertive enough to complain the s&$t out of the German company that sold them an expensive lemon...
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Some forum members continue not to believe this. Anyway, and not surprisingly, one of the contributors to the CX70 Forum scores almost 600 posts out of a total of 1.500, an incredible feature, as he continuously inform us very selectively about his disappointment with two (2) CX-60s.
Believe your version or mine? :) I believe mine. As you do yours. Why would I believe yours? Thankfully, the industry in the UK on a whole has similar views to mine regarding the ride so its not an isolated opinion, and its one that affects the vehicle heavily in the UK through industry and market perception.

I personally have no issue with the handling of the car, it handles very well as far as I am concerned, even better than my previous Audi S3, but this is maybe as I've never experienced the bouncing, but others have, yet they must believe you no? despite their own experience?

With your history of being a bit of a Mazda fan, with previous Mazda under your belt, its entirely plausible that the whole 'fan-boi' bias takes over. Cognitive bias is a strong power. Its like a typical Max Verstappen fan - the fans will say he does no wrong, yet evidence proves otherwise but they have that glazed look when presented with stuff like his racism sympathising and ableist commentary.

Also, moving from a Subaru Impreza (of which I have owned three, and do still one) it's not surprising you feel the ride quality of the SUV is good. because you are comparing it to a different class of car entirely. Its good against my 1998 Type R on coilovers and 18's with 35 profile tyres. However, as an SUV, and the class of the SUV and price, the ride is not accomplished and easily outclassed, as a sports saloon car on rubber band tyres, maybe it would be good.

I have no no interest in losing money by buying another car when this one has the potential to be made better, for far less cost. Hence the discussions will continue long after you've disappeared for a few months again.

Your contribution of 11 posts to the forum has been, well, insightful, but I enjoy them! Keep em coming more often please, I miss you.
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Is PHEV battery temperature on 3/4 normal?
View attachment 389
It is completely normal (y)
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Hi all, quick update on my issues so far -

Charging stopping after 15 minutes - this is now fixed, Mazda replaced my 3 pin charger cable.

Pano roof rattle - has been fixed with an entire new panoramic roof.

There was apparently another rattle from the tailgate not closing properly so that's had a new catch and definitely sounds more secure when it closes.

I've had all applicable software updates - hasn't really made a difference to the jumpy gearbox and the car still accelerates by itself on down shifts.

The keyless opening on drivers side worked the entire time it was in with them so nothing has happened on that.

Gesture tailgate now works every time. Nothing replaced but may have been covered in one of the updates.

12v battery warning. There's no fix for.

I can't find the post now but someone mentioned previously their heated seats coming on apparently randomly - this is a menu setting that links heated seats and steering to climate and can be turned on or off.
Hi @Minimhf did you resolve the gearbox issue?
So if there is some process to this learning function, I'd love to know what it is. Could you ask them?
So, I have spoken with service desk person.
This action has been recommended by Mazda UK. They have reported back, that this fix has been effective. They have also done it to the demo CX-60 demo they have on site and as the car does not drive as often, this also has been successful. So, two cars done using the same procedure and both without 12V warning (at this stage).
She said it was recommended to take it out completely, charge, put it back in, drive, disconnect for an hour and re-connect for the car "to register" new state of the battery.
She has confirmed that when my car has been in the garage they have monitored the charge status when the engine was running. It has been recorded to be 14.0 - 14.2 over 35 minutes when engine was running.

@dromik - based on your post:
We decided to follow Bart110 (y) informations and we disconnected minus wire - so car was without power. As my father is mechanic for 30 years, he has at garage profesional charger and a lot of experience. As we realized that battery is S95 Yuasa, charger was connected and set, car was disconnected for c.a two hours. Do not close a key!! :)

And warning is removed!!! I have traveled with about 15 full stops and warning never appears!!!
this also has been successful for you, so it could be something ;)

Sorry @Southeastern , I don't think I will be able to get anything more without speaking with the actual technician (they are very protective for customers to speak with them) that was working on my car.
Currently, after two days, 5 short drives less than 10 min each and 2 longer one (over hour each) the warning has not returned
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this also has been successful for you, so it could be something ;)

Sorry @Southeastern , I don't think I will be able to get anything more without speaking with the actual technician (they are very protective for customers to speak with them) that was working on my car.
Currently, after two days, 5 short drives less than 10 min each and 2 longer one (over hour each) the warning has not returned
I have next confirmation on another car that removing 12V warning procedure is working. ;););)
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