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You may try a moisture eater.
There are basically two types: dry and wet.

The dry ones need reconditioning in the oven between uses, the wet ones need a refill bag once a month or two.

Dry ones:
View attachment 1600 View attachment 1601

Wet ones:
View attachment 1602

I use the latter one (wet) but it needs to be hung behind the back seat in such a way that it can never be able to fall on it's side. It has also to be emptied of accumulated water before each ride (100 - 200 ml per each few days).

The former one (dry) can be placed anywhere in the car and the worst thing what can happen is it stop working unless it is reconditioned (dried).


The moisture which is not evacuated from the car's interior lands inside inaccessible places where it is not able to dry sufficiently in wintertime (because it freezes) and creates exactly the problems you are experiencing when some heat is applied.
Thx for sharing.
I also started to use one, although a “dry” one, which I keep on top of the dashboard, next to the windscreen. Has a “control dot” and when the color changes it means it’s full of absorbed moisture and needs an oven treatment 😁.
It basically needs reconditioning every 3/4 weeks in this cold season.
 
Hi all,

I just took delivery of my PHEV CX-60 almost 2 weeks ago in AUS, and everything has been working as it should, except for the 360deg camera display, which sometimes shows a black screen when starting up the car. Attached is a picture of what it shows. Other times, the cameras work as expected, after turning off the car and leaving it alone for some time.

Took back to the dealer and they mentioned they will update the software when bringing the car in for the first 1K service.

Have tried Googling over days to find solutions to it, and failing that, posting my question on this forum.

Has anybody else experienced the same thing, and found a solution for it?

View attachment 1370
This issue is now resolved by having the entire camera module replaced after complaining to the dealer repeatedly. Guess that I had a lousy luck in getting a lemon camera out of the factory.
 
I’m about to go to the dealer for a few rattles and the latest A/C TSB. One of the rattles, is in the horn/airbag on the steering wheel. It makes a ticking sound about 80% of the time. When I push on the top of that part, right before the rear edge, the ticking stops…

Other noises I have:
Ticking in the A pillar due to loose plastic part near the door hinge. Will ask to apply some felt tape (as I read in another thread).

Rattle in B pillar next to my ear: probably due to seat belt mechanism I guess. I read that it could be a resonating sound from the A pillar noise through the door). Not sure, since it sounds REALLY close.

Since the sticky steering fix, there’s a “bell” sound coming out of the panel below the steering wheel. Happens on longer trips, I guess when the parts behind the panel are fully warmed up. It’s like the sound of a cat bell. It sounds as if it comes from a part that is under pressure, because it doesn’t stop in a natural way each time. It resonates quickly and then comes to a stop. This then happens with each small imperfection on the road.

Apart from the A pillar noise: Did anyone also noticed these? Any solution?
 
Was finally able to record how the defective differential sounds. TLDR my dealer says it’s fine, it is my imagination.

Does it only happen on sharp turns at low speed? I have it, but only after starting the car on the internal combustion engine after a night. The whole car shakes. After 5 minutes of driving it stops. I reported it to the service and together we thought it was the gearbox's fault, because they are considering replacing it.
 
Does it only happen on sharp turns at low speed? I have it, but only after starting the car on the internal combustion engine after a night. The whole car shakes. After 5 minutes of driving it stops. I reported it to the service and together we thought it was the gearbox's fault, because they are considering replacing it.
Exactly as you described, another dealer confirmed the deferential issue after talking to Mazda. 🤷‍♂️ never ending story with this car
 
Exactly as you described, another dealer confirmed the deferential issue after talking to Mazda. 🤷‍♂️ never ending story with this car
I have to pass this on to my service. I won't hide the fact that I really liked my cx60 and I have the premier PHEV model. It would be a shame to sell it today. I've been to the service 35-40 times, I've lost count. :eek:strożny:
 
Everyone would be lucky if they could simply fix all the issues. My dealer is simply refusing to fix anything. 👌 because there are no issues with the car. The problems I have with my car are invented by ppl in forums like this one… just speechless
 
Everyone would be lucky if they could simply fix all the issues. My dealer is simply refusing to fix anything. 👌 because there are no issues with the car. The problems I have with my car are invented by ppl in forums like this one… just speechless
They should be glad that you’re ’investigating’ it yourself by looking around on this forum… In fact, you’re doing their job.

Is it an option to ditch the dealer and go for another one? Maybe other Germans can recommend theirs (and hopefully it’s not too far for you).
 
Hello everyone,

Recently, I started hearing some rattling sounds from the trunk. The service replaced the latch catch in the tailgate, which helped for about a week. However, the annoying noise has returned. I’ve tried adjusting the striker pin, but I wasn’t able to find a spot where the noise wouldn’t occur.

Has Mazda released any TSB for this? Maybe there’s a permanent fix for this annoying problem.
 
Hello everyone,

Recently, I started hearing some rattling sounds from the trunk. The service replaced the latch catch in the tailgate, which helped for about a week. However, the annoying noise has returned. I’ve tried adjusting the striker pin, but I wasn’t able to find a spot where the noise wouldn’t occur.

Has Mazda released any TSB for this? Maybe there’s a permanent fix for this annoying problem.
Yes there is a TSB. Had the same problem fixed. They change the lock. Just ask your dealer.
 
Hi everyone. I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask my question, but at least I will try.
First, a little bit of context...
I live in the Dominican Republic.
There are 2 CX-60 models being sold here: a cheaper one with a 2.5L gasoline engine (the one I have), and an expensive one with the well known in-line 6 gasoline engine.
So, no PHEV models, no Diesel models.
My car is a 2024 model, but I got it in August 2023, therefore it was built around mid-2023.
Similar to other people here, the relationship with the vehicle is a love/hate situation. It's a nice looking car, elegant, comfortable, and compared to my previous vehicle (a 2018 CX-5), the interior space of the CX-60 is amazing.
All the said, and considering it only has 7,000km, the issues so far are never ending:
  • The jerky acceleration at low speeds, which was supposed to dissapear after the TCM software update, but for me the problem is still there
  • The bumpy suspension
  • The underpowered engine compared to the size of the car
  • And recently, the sticky steering
So.. my question is, using the VIN number as a reference (maybe the first 11 characters or so) is it possible to know if the production batch where my vehicle came from is prone to keep having more problems?
 
Hi everyone. I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask my question, but at least I will try.
First, a little bit of context...
I live in the Dominican Republic.
There are 2 CX-60 models being sold here: a cheaper one with a 2.5L gasoline engine (the one I have), and an expensive one with the well known in-line 6 gasoline engine.
So, no PHEV models, no Diesel models.
My car is a 2024 model, but I got it in August 2023, therefore it was built around mid-2023.
Similar to other people here, the relationship with the vehicle is a love/hate situation. It's a nice looking car, elegant, comfortable, and compared to my previous vehicle (a 2018 CX-5), the interior space of the CX-60 is amazing.
All the said, and considering it only has 7,000km, the issues so far are never ending:
  • The jerky acceleration at low speeds, which was supposed to dissapear after the TCM software update, but for me the problem is still there
  • The bumpy suspension
  • The underpowered engine compared to the size of the car
  • And recently, the sticky steering
So.. my question is, using the VIN number as a reference (maybe the first 11 characters or so) is it possible to know if the production batch where my vehicle came from is prone to keep having more problems?
A 2.5 without battery? Gosh that must be horrendous to drive.

When I had my PHEV, often when on the motorway I would attempt an overtake and there would be no power at all (basically no battery assist) and it would barely do anything as the engine was so weak and pathetic.
 
A 2.5 without battery? Gosh that must be horrendous to drive.

When I had my PHEV, often when on the motorway I would attempt an overtake and there would be no power at all (basically no battery assist) and it would barely do anything as the engine was so weak and pathetic.
Indeed.
A vehicle that size with a 2.5L engine should not exist.
 
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