[Southeastern]

Would you let us know, where exactly you put the extra soundproofing? Especially under the bonnet, the rear arches and the boot floor...did you just put it everywhere? Or Somewhere more strategic?
What about the bootlid?

I may make a thread on here about the sound proofing. I already have in our FB group.

Its not putting it everywhere, there is some strategy to it, albeit based more on touch and hearing than anything measured. You can 'tap' around the body of the car and find where the resonance sounds like a tin can. The rear wheel arches havw absolutely NO soundproofing in at all just really thin sheet metal and the really thin board/carpet cover, once I applied some it literally stopped tyre roar in its tracks.

The bonnet is self explanatory when you remove the fabric panel. I did the doors 90% as I noticed the marked improvement from the basic Mazda stuff, so knew I could get better. The doors now feel and close like a Bentley, but it does show how cheap and nasty the door handles are though. I am contemplating see if they can be 'filled' with some form of polymer so they don't feel like something off a Toyota Yaris.

I haven't done the tailgate, and I don't feel I really need to add anymore currently (other than to the front wheel wells), the car is so much more quiet than it was previously, but do want to do a longer motorway test on it first.

One thing to look for , is my previous PHEV had no sound proofing at all on the boot floor. The Diesel has some of the crappy spray soundproofing stuff - that stuff is ok to a a point , but it's designed more to stop flex and resonance in the sheet metal (which it does) but it does little for actual sound blocking and because of the poly insert used in the boot, lots of the metal is still exposed as it would raise the boot floor otherwise.

Yes, it's a saloon - the Station Wagon isn't available with Airmatic, which was actually the only reason for going with the saloon instead of the SW. "I" am comparing it to an SUV, because it's the only two cars i have available to actually compare side to side.

The Airmatic is also something that apparently should have oddles of suspension travel and the W213 E-Class has cunky tires as well. 245/45 in the front and 275/45 in the back, both 18" is something that SHOULD make a very smooth ride. The CX-60 has not that much more suspension travel.

Your S3 comparison is however not great, because the S3 is a much smaller and lighter car - the W213 E-Class is much heavier than the CX-60 and i'd say the unsprung masses are either similar or the CX-60 has less.
I see your

I see what you mean about the weight - just looked it up and nigh on the same as the CX60, the Audi is a few hundred kilos less. I presume you must be comparing to one of the cheaper models with the smaller wheels if the travel is the same as the CX60 as the photos Ive looked at the car does look slammed!

Its definitely steered me away from Merc if the suspension is as bad as the CX60's though.

 

[Noah4x4]

I agree, let’s please always start a new thread dedicated to any post purchase additions and/or enthusiast type enhancements.

I feel it would be much better going forward to separate threads into some that support the ordinary CX-60 car owner that has no desire to tinker with it and others for those that wish to debate and progress potential “enhancements” that a few genuinely perceive are Mazda omissions, but many others don’t.

Frankly, I don’t expect Bentley quality soundproofing in a £50k car, but my CX-60 soundproofing and my ride is already better than my previous Mercedes and Jaguar. I found myself becoming paranoid about my CX-60 instead of enjoying it due to repeatedly reading about alleged faults that on further evaluation many (ultimately) won’t perceive exist once past the early production models that were admittedly unsatisfactory. Any car can be enhanced if you want to throw more money at it, but that doesn’t make it a bad car. By putting specialist enthusiast upgrade topics into dedicated threads, the more general threads will become a much more enjoyable read for the average owner.

 

[Southeastern]

I agree, let’s please always start a new thread dedicated to any post purchase additions and/or enthusiast type enhancements.

I feel it would be much better going forward to separate threads into some that support the ordinary CX-60 car owner that has no desire to tinker with it and others for those that wish to debate and progress potential “enhancements” that a few genuinely perceive are Mazda omissions, but many others don’t.

Frankly, I don’t expect Bentley quality soundproofing in a £50k car, but my CX-60 soundproofing and my ride is already better than my previous Mercedes and Jaguar. I found myself becoming paranoid about my CX-60 instead of enjoying it due to repeatedly reading about alleged faults that on further evaluation many (ultimately) won’t perceive exist once past the early production models that were admittedly unsatisfactory. Any car can be enhanced if you want to throw more money at it, but that doesn’t make it a bad car. By putting specialist enthusiast upgrade topics into dedicated threads, the more general threads will become a much more enjoyable read for the average owner.

‘Start a new thread’ and then go on for three paragraphs about nothing to do with this thread title? Oh my days.

£65 was hardly a large amount of money to spend and for what it brought to the tin car party it was worth its weight in saffron and cocaine. It would be a great investment.

With you not owning a diesel, why do you write on this particular thread?

 

[Southeastern]

@nexusband

Do you have the clunky bang and rumble a couple of seconds after you turn the engine one?

Mine is going in for another week to see if they can fix it. The dealer demo vehicles all have it to.

You can hear it on this link, although it sounds less dramatic as the 'bass' rumble isnt captured on their microphone

If you watch around 3.33 it gives you an indication of what area/part is causing it.

Some days its so violent, my whole car rocks.

 

[Southeastern]

In terms of sound proofing, here are some photos - this is not completed as I didn't take any of the doors, and I added a fair bit more on the boot floor.

It was trial and error as you have to put it around the areas where the poly insert fits, unless you arent bother about the floor cover being raised by what ever thickness of sound proofing you use - I used 2.5mm Killmat.

The rear arches I managed to do on the inner and outside side, literally half a piece of the Kilmat stopped all sorts of tin box resonance, I didn't try to do the front of the arch as was worried about releasing the air bag which is there.

Basically, just tap around exposed metal, and you'll hear the difference of the 'tin can' vs the 'solid' knock of a soundproofed area.

The sub woofer now sounds much better as well.

I used a box of Killmat which was £65 on Amazon. Money and time well spent and it's all invisible.

I see this as 'Stage 1' to see what if any benefits it brought, and it really did. Just the front wheel wells to do, so at some point I'll take out the liners and sound proof the rear of them with Kilmat and a sound absorbing carpet/foam type material.

In reality, the bulk head and transmission tunnel does need to be done because the diesel engine is noisy especially when cold, but I am not confident about removing that centre console yet!

 

[PCM]

Great level of detail! Thanks for sharing.

 

[Southeastern]

Great level of detail! Thanks for sharing.

Thanks, i wish I had taken more photos now, especially of the doors. It was all a bit of trial and error, checking panels could go back into place after applying etc, and basically to ensure it was completely invisible.


With the doors - I guess it depends on how well the dealer applies the door stuff, but the related TSB is specifically to stop the 'tinny' sound, which is flex in the metal and resonance in the empty door shell cavity, it's not for actual 'soundproofing' persay, so the dealer gets given a small pieces of the stuff to use.

I remember @BWJ did some minor sound proofing to his boot floor, as his PHEV like mine had zero sound proofing in the boot. The Diesel had some as you can see from the photos. I think the newer cars are now having this applied in the boot and doors.

Doing it this way provided much more insulation, so the cabin is so quiet now its remarkable, I am really happy with it. All for few quid and some graft. Worth every penny!

It added around 6-7kg of weight, nothing problematic, but I can always go on a little diet to compensate

 

[nexusband]

That's really something that deserves it's own Thread

How easy was it to dismantle stuff and especially get it back together?

Re the clunky sounds: I can only speak from living a few days with the dealers cars, but both of them did not show any sings of this problem. Actually, i've seen the Video as well...was the cause found by them?
I get mine probably in the middle of September.

 

[Southeastern]

That's really something that deserves it's own Thread

How easy was it to dismantle stuff and especially get it back together?

Oh because Noah chimed in I ensured it went on this thread

Fairly easy tbh, these cars come apart a lot easier compared to an Audi. I broke a couple of clips but only a few quid on eBay to replace. The panels are all made of a very thin plastic - in some way it is better as its less 'locked in' with mass so harder to break when pulling it out, but they do feel a bit cheap in comparison.

Did you see my post above about the engine rumble on starting?

 

[nexusband]

Did you see my post above about the engine rumble on starting?

Yes, see my Edit

Re the clunky sounds: I can only speak from living a few days with the dealers cars, but both of them did not show any sings of this problem. Actually, i've seen the Video as well...was the cause found by them?
I get mine probably in the middle of September.

 

[Southeastern]

Yes, see my Edit

Re the clunky sounds: I can only speak from living a few days with the dealers cars, but both of them did not show any sings of this problem. Actually, i've seen the Video as well...was the cause found by them?
I get mine probably in the middle of September.

Thats interesting, and positive that it may just be an issue on the UK/RHD spec cars so it can be solved. Ill take my own video of it tomorrow. All the cars coming into my dealer has the same problem. Its so very noticeable. The engine starts nice and quiet...then 3 seconds later it sounds like its about to explode, put it into R, and it goes, but back into D and it comes back.

The Japanese gang havent figured it out - but its hard to follow their channel as I don't know what the title refers to as its all in Kanji.

 

[BWJ]

You just have to remember to do the job properly, many people just slap some bitumen silencer material on without making sure that the product sits completely tight, without air between the plate and the silencer, you only discover the mistake late when rust appears because condensation forms between the layers, and then that too late, obviously only applies to plates between the cabin and the outside.

 

[Southeastern]

You just have to remember to do the job properly, many people just slap some bitumen silencer material on without making sure that the product sits completely tight, without air between the plate and the silencer, you only discover the mistake late when rust appears because condensation forms between the layers, and then that too late, obviously only applies to plates between the cabin and the outside.

Yup, that and good prep work, the surface has to be as clean as a panel should be if you’re about paint it.

A good aspect of the Killmat stuff is that its silver backing has ‘collapsable’ squares which give you a good idea that you have rollered it on hard enough. Its hard work though.

 

[adiemus_13]

The first diesel in Poland. SCR system failed. Speed will be limited after 50km, and the car will be blocked after 1000km. View attachment 193

Hey, we've had the car for 2-3 weeks now, and its the second time it had to go to the mechanics because of this issue. Honestly it feels kind of disappointing that Mazda's supposed "luxury" entrance to the market is this unreliable, this early.

Perhaps it is an episodic issue, but cant help but feel bad for buying a brand new car which is in the shop every three days.

 

[Papunardi]

Hey, we've had the car for 2-3 weeks now, and its the second time it had to go to the mechanics because of this issue. Honestly it feels kind of disappointing that Mazda's supposed "luxury" entrance to the market is this unreliable, this early.

Perhaps it is an episodic issue, but cant help but feel bad for buying a brand new car which is in the shop every three days.

Hi, sorry to hear that! What was the reason to visit the service shop?
I have mine for almost 4 months now and made 9500km already without having any issues.

 

[adiemus_13]

Hi, sorry to hear that! What was the reason to visit the service shop?
I have mine for almost 4 months now and made 9500km already without having any issues.

The error itself is related to the AdBlue functionality, and as in kowalcp2's screenshot the dashboard notification is indicating that engine power will be reduced and eventually shut off (similar to DPF).

I read in the manual that during the setup, it is not a good idea to fill the AdBlue liquid to full capacity, because this may cause a warning and today after we got the car back, indeed the guys actually removed some of it and currently it is sitting at 80% (according to the Mazda app), so let's see how long this "fix" holds up.

Bottom line is whether it is an actual issue or some sensor/wrong setup, you HAVE to visit the service shop and you cannot rely that this wont happen during a long cross-country trip, given it happened twice in 2 weeks.

The car is otherwise amazing and it will be a shame for this to reoccur, as we may consider returning it. Lets see how it goes

 

[Southeastern]

My latest plethora of issues, 1500 miles in...if it wasn't for the brilliant engine in this car, it would be returned. I am having discussions with the dealer manager next week about rejection, he has said he 'wont stand in my way', but I imagine there will be a little more to it when we start looking at the figures...

Came about from trying to start the car in the morning, it struggling to crank (obviously the battery drain issue still hasn't been fixed the last time it was in at the dealers) and then everything went pop loudly...tonnes of error messages and noises, and then everything went dead.

Video - VEED - IMG_5424

Booster pack started, car drove ok, but gearbox when into hibernation mode and nearly caused a crash on a roundabout, adaptive cruise and lane assist not working, infotainment screen goes blank or half blank etc.

Once the battery was fully charged, I had to do a manual 12V reset to get rid of the dashboard lights (earth bond off the wing for half an hour), everything working again, infotainment screen still intermittent though.

 

[Papunardi]

My latest plethora of issues, 1500 miles in...if it wasn't for the brilliant engine in this car, it would be returned. I am having discussions with the dealer manager next week about rejection, he has said he 'wont stand in my way', but I imagine there will be a little more to it when we start looking at the figures...

Came about from trying to start the car in the morning, it struggling to crank (obviously the battery drain issue still hasn't been fixed the last time it was in at the dealers) and then everything went pop loudly...tonnes of error messages and noises, and then everything went dead.

Video - VEED - IMG_5424

Booster pack started, car drove ok, but gearbox when into hibernation mode and nearly caused a crash on a roundabout, adaptive cruise and lane assist not working, infotainment screen goes blank or half blank etc.

Once the battery was fully charged, I had to do a manual 12V reset to get rid of the dashboard lights (earth bond off the wing for half an hour), everything working again, infotainment screen still intermittent though.


View attachment 475 View attachment 477
View attachment 476

Really don’t know what to say, man! Sounds terrible. Haven’t experienced none of these. Don’t know if it’s luck or something…
I’m pretty happy with the car, even called my dealer yesterday to share the news that the consumption is getting lower… just drove to Ioannian sea coast (abt 700km at 5,3l/100km.
I’m sorry for your experience… you started with the phev and now the diesel too… really sorry, man.

 

[Southeastern]

Really don’t know what to say, man! Sounds terrible. Haven’t experienced none of these. Don’t know if it’s luck or something…
I’m pretty happy with the car, even called my dealer yesterday to share the news that the consumption is getting lower… just drove to Ioannian sea coast (abt 700km at 5,3l/100km.
I’m sorry for your experience… you started with the phev and now the diesel too… really sorry, man.

The engine will get better and better, takes 20k for a diesel to break in!

Yeah, my experience with Mazda hasn't gone very well. As I said earlier, if it wasnt for this engine, Id be handing it back on Monday and going elsewhere. Ill see how it is after I get it back in a week or two and then make a decision.

 

[adiemus_13]

Hey, we've had the car for 2-3 weeks now, and its the second time it had to go to the mechanics because of this issue. Honestly it feels kind of disappointing that Mazda's supposed "luxury" entrance to the market is this unreliable, this early.

Perhaps it is an episodic issue, but cant help but feel bad for buying a brand new car which is in the shop every three days.

So an update here, it turns out there is nothing wrong with the car itself, but rather the mechanics at the dealership, when setting up the car had not read the manual and put too much AdBlue which was causing a false alarm. Ever since we reduced the amount of liquid inside there has been no similar issues, or any other issues at all.

So excluding this the car is spectacular, hopefully it stays like that in the long run.