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I've only done 2419 miles (3893km) and it claims service is due in 4600 miles (7402km). so a total of 7019 miles (11295km) for first service - which is not acceptable. Thanks for making me check - I will be talking to my dealer.
Can someone point me to the official figures please?
Could not find the figures for CX 60 but other Mazda hybrids is 10.000 miles or one year whatever comes first. My dealer also told me 15.000 km or one year.
 
Am i the only one having problems with the Road keep assist on small roads with no lines and gravel by the side of the road. The car literally pushes me into the oncoming traffic... super dangerous. Is there any way of permanently turning off this function.?
 
Am i the only one having problems with the Road keep assist on small roads with no lines and gravel by the side of the road. The car literally pushes me into the oncoming traffic... super dangerous. Is there any way of permanently turning off this function.?
Not had that problem myself, but absolutely hate the system! It is part of the NCAP safety rating and as such it is prohibited from being turned off permanently (I asked several people including an ex NCAP employee). You can do it on a trip by trip basis but it is buried several menu levels down.
 
Not had that problem myself, but absolutely hate the system! It is part of the NCAP safety rating and as such it is prohibited from being turned off permanently (I asked several people including an ex NCAP employee). You can do it on a trip by trip basis but it is buried several menu levels down.
I believe you are right om NCAP angle, it was just if there was a way to perhops tune down the reaction form the system, everything reset completely after a restart of the car. the issue is just that the system is not behaving right in form my point of view., it can actively cause a collision.. Think i will try do a video for to show the dealer...
 
I believe you are right om NCAP angle, it was just if there was a way to perhops tune down the reaction form the system, everything reset completely after a restart of the car. the issue is just that the system is not behaving right in form my point of view., it can actively cause a collision.. Think i will try do a video for to show the dealer...
Just wait till the Auto Emergency Brake goes iff randomly, as it will, already almost caused two crashes for me and angry thinking i was pulling a ‘cash for crash’ scam as the road was empty and ‘I’ anchored on the brakes from 40mph for no reason.
 
I believe you are right om NCAP angle, it was just if there was a way to perhops tune down the reaction form the system, everything reset completely after a restart of the car. the issue is just that the system is not behaving right in form my point of view., it can actively cause a collision.. Think i will try do a video for to show the dealer...
The problem is the system as delivered to us poor users was the requisite "tick in the box" that contributed to the NCAP rating. To change it in any way means a whole new approval. Not going to happen. Bureaucrats always know best!
 
The problem is the system as delivered to us poor users was the requisite "tick in the box" that contributed to the NCAP rating. To change it in any way means a whole new approval. Not going to happen. Bureaucrats always know best!
It a shame there isn't a 'programmable' button the steering wheel like Audi's have with the * button, you could programme it to turn off (and on) these devices all by single click when driving.

But I imagine there is some bureaucrat reason why that wouldn't be allowed either!
 
Maybe so, i have done 2 driveshafts replaced already, both faulty, now waiting for the new version to arrive 10. may -
confirmed to dealer by Mazda Motor Europe Leverkusen.

UPDATE 13, apr. 2023:
Complete updated new type driveshaft has arrived, when Rack & Pinion Unit arrives, probably ultimo april, both items will be replaced.
 
Hello all,

About the vibrations felt between 45-70 km/h range and the afferent throbbing noise (like you would drive the car with a back window open at high speed): I went to the dealer and they tried to reposition the shaft, rotate it or whatever... it did not worked and the vibrations are still there.

So, I wrote again to Mazda and received yesterday an official confirmation: none of the intermediary solutions work (reposition and rotate the drive shaft) so Mazda will issue a Service Bulletin for replacing the driveshaft. The Service Bulletin shall be issued around mid April and the change of the driveshaft shall be possible to do starting with end of April, they have to get the parts on stock before calling the Mazda customers for replacement.

Mazda did not say anything about the time required for the change but I guess it wont last more than a day.

If you have other feedback from your dealers, please share it.

BR
THROBBING NOISE; As mentioned in an earlier post my car would go in service for the throbbing noise. The dealer told me they would rotate the shaft but they did not do it, the technician said there is noise but not noticeable vibration so rotating the shaft could make it worse. (He did it before without succes) Now they ordered a new shaft. The technician said that the tolerance in unbalance in the older shaft was max. 30 and the new shaft will be < 5 (don’t know the unit) What the dealer did do was mounting the acoustic damping material on the inside of the doors. I must say this is a big improvement and closing the doors sounds more solid now. This was done as a free service by Mazda which I think is good aftersales.
I will report again after the shaft is replaced for the effect it will have.
 
Hi All, and Greetings from Germany!

Thanks to all for the Forum contribution so far and for you sharing your CX-60 experiences. It is good to know what other owners experience is, what kind of problems are there with the car and what a fix might be. Especially for a new released car, where you don’t have too much feedback already in the market.

I’ve bought in mid-Dec.22, after a 6 months waiting, a CX-60 PHEV Homura with all extra packs, (looks to be an Oct. built model), as a replacement car for my wife's old Passat Alltrack.

As per the current trend we've took the opportunity to become more greener, and switched from a Diesel to a PHEV. We've also tried a BEV option earlier in 2022 and had a fully electric Volvo XC40 for 5 months - but we've gave it back and ruled BEVs out (at least for the moment). The BEV for us was a rather disappointing experience: huge disappointment in terms of Range (and this was from spring to autumn, so not winter conditions) and for our XC40 in particular also a lot of reliability issues.

We've chosen ultimately a PHEV, maybe as many of you out here, to try to get the better of the 2 worlds: Fully Electric in the city, ICE with E-support on motorways.

We've done some upgrades to the car:
  • new Rims + Winter Tires on 255/45/R20, kept the original Homura rims + summer tires for the summer only.
  • Mazda Roof Rack to accommodate our Thule box, so expected the consumptions to increase a little.


In a little bit more that 3 months (since car was received) we've done 4500 km, I will say approx. 2500 km a mix of city (with a lot of 20-30 km drives) and motorways (with weekend trips no longer than 100 / 200 km). Plus a bigger trip for the winter holiday (approx. 2000 km round trip).

As with many of you on this Forum, we have noticed similar "set of annoying problems", which we were not expecting for a car in this price range (approx. 65 KEur), which was advertise as a Premium alternative for the big boys: Q5, X3, XC60 and GLC, but at 10-20 KEur less money. So the lower price difference needs to be reflected somewhere, right ?

Need to say here that in general both myself and my wife like the interior and we are pleased, in general, with how the car overall performs (comfort, seats, interior space and trunk, communication and car-used interactions). OK – you are quite not in the same “car” league as above mentioned, but let’s say for 15k EUR less you get a NEW car with 6 year guarantee, 8 years on the battery and previous good Mazda reputation should sign you on.

But there are also issues. I will try to summarize bellow, using a “similar issues” format as some of you before:

1. Electricity / Fuel consumptions:
a. ONLY Petrol consumption – here, tbh it is a little bit as expected (so with NO or very little electrical motor support, basically when battery is depleted), the consumption is something like 8.5 to 9.5 l/100km (no charging). When force charging is used, one can be expecting to add +2L /100km in consumption, for the Battery to recharge. Which we all know is very inefficient and should be used if you need to retain battery for a later city green zone drive.

b. ONLY Electricity - mainly used for city drives (something around 35 KWh – 40 KWh / 100 km consumption). Here we were expecting (maybe wrongly) something like 25-30 KWh, also advertised by Mazda. But as we are in Winter Conditions the car needs a lot of energy, especially for heating. Currently we can drive approx. 35-40 km from an 100% charged battery - at least my wife can – before the ICE kicks in. At this point the Battery still have some reserves (between 18% and 30%) depending on the Outside temperature. I normally drive it a little bit sportier, so I manage to do 30-40 km in this Winter conditions.

On +20 °C I managed to drive even 52 km full electric, but only once.
On -10 °C and below – obviously the electrical range dropped toward 30km.

c. Hybrid Drive – this vary and is quite difficult to understand, actually to correctly quantify - as for us depends a lot of how many times and how much electricity we recharge before we refill once the petrol tank. Generally – during weekdays we drive fully electric and in the weekends, with longer trips, the ICE.



2. Throbbing noise and Vibrations at 45-70 km/h speed:
Unfortunately we have a mixture of both of them. It occurs mainly when the car starts in very cold and cold mornings and is quite annoying for the first 10, 15 KM. It starts at 45km/h increase in intensity towards 55-60 km/h and slowly decrease and disappear above 70 km/h.
The Throbbing is present during this whole above speed interval and the vibrations I feel them mostly in the 45-60km interval.


3. Suspension:
Indeed it is a little bit too stiff, and for couple of times I have experienced (my wife not) some “mild” bouncing / oscillations on the rear suspensions. Nothing to really scare me, but anyway something not expected for such a “Premium car”. I have not experienced the car on bad / very bad roads, hence the rods here in Germany are decent enough. So I don’t know if this will be a road security issue.


4. Jerky movements in the transmission:
Also present. These happened mainly at low speed and lower gears. There are days (especially very cold weather) when I experienced even couple of them almost in a raw, when you are stuck in traffic, traffic lights, etc. And days (warmer days, or afternoons) when beardly feel one. But they are there, on a daily basis!


5. Issues with the DAB not starting, when you re-start the car:
Also present. Initially I thought it is something with the reception in the area where we live. But that was not happening with the Volvo and also with an Audi S6 I had as a company car. So my temp. fix was to manually re-engage it from the Main Menu, and worked. Also read here on the Forum that a switch off and on from the Radio button also works as a temp. fix. MANY THANKS for the tip, have tried this and works too for my car.


6. Doors Closing Sound:
Absolutely horrifying. The worse I’ve heard in any car I drove. Even a smaller Hyundai i20 (which a friend of mine keeps for short city trips) sounds better.

Does anyone – that have opted for the extra insulation – knows if this is cost free / supported by Mazda in Germany OR you need to pay from your own pocket, in case you would like a more “premium” sound for your car’s doors closing? - THANKS for SHARING!


7. Vibrating side mirror:
Didn’t notice any on our car.


8. Wireless Charger:
Seems to work OK with iPhones ( a 14Pro and a XS) although they got quite hot. Hence normally using cable to charge on long trips. On short trips the iPhones are connected to CX-60 Car Play mainly via WiFi (of course works one at the time, but you can have more registered in the car.) Peaty that the Car doesn’t log the correct telephone based on the recognized driver via the driver profile. Sometimes when both of us are traveling together and I drive, my wife’s phone get connected to the CarPlay, and vice-versa. We didn’t figure it out yet how to make the car to match the correct phone with the correct user profile (like XC40 had). But we have the manual choice via the Main Menu. Not optimal but helps.


9. Line / Cruise / Other Systems Assist:
Seems to work but I cannot say that it is working Very Well and that we are pleased. For example - the Line assist - I find it a little bit tricky, as the car tends to slightly ping-pong between the offside lines, rather than keeping the line in the middle. One need constant attention. And I am talking here – driving at 100 – 130 km on motorway. My wife doesn’t like it at all, comparing this to what Volvo and Audi offered here. Hence she is not using it at all in CX60. Audi was like on rail track – even at 200 km/h. Volvo max. speed was only 160 km/h and due to BEV consumptions on motorways was driven at max 120 – 130 km/h, and at this speed was absolutely a delight in assisting. In CX60 I am feeling like, if I leave the steering wheel unattended – even for a fraction of a second, I am gonna end up entering the other lines, bumping the other cars. Don’t know it this is just how Mazda it is, or is something wrong with our car. I intentionally test the car for couple of times - hands free of the steering wheel for 2, 3 seconds (in a “safer” place with no traffic at all around me) and had the nasty surprise that the car in some instances, ended up on the other line. Unacceptable!


10. Refueling with Petrol:
The car supposed to have 50L tank. And it has, but …. when you are refueling – seems to stop at a time when the tank can still accommodate 8 or 9 L petrol. Weird. So basically you have in the tank 40-42 L only. This has never happened to me in any car I drove before (petrol, diesel, PHEV).
I would say that this should not normally be a problem (as I said, during weekdays we drive the cat in the city in full EV mode). But when you drive on motorways, and especially long trips you do not want to add extra stops (if you can accommodate more fuel initially).
In order to fill the whole tank with 50L I need to slowly, but really slowly fill in the additional 8, 9 L, by gently pushing the fuel hose lever at the pump. Which can take another good 5-7 min, with other traffic participants, waiting in line for refueling, looking at you like at a crazy sheep: what is this guy doing ?!?


11. The 12V Battery:
I leaved this at the end as for us this was another nightmare, ruined a whole weekend.

The car is normally driven – almost daily, but we had a week when the car was not driven at all. When we wanted to use the car on a Saturday morning the 12V Battery (or 12V batteries) were complete dead. I needed to use the physical key (inside the remote control there is a key) to manually open the doors. Then had access to open the charger bay and manage to plug it for main battery to be recharged or re-energized via plug-in. After recharging for 1h the main battery I was able to drive in Electric so the car was able to charge a little bit the 12V battery too. Needed to drive for 10km or so until I manage to start the ICE too. Weird. And the car remained with a lot of warnings since. Almost every week now the car gives a 12V warning / or couple of them. I even bought a 12V battery charger and properly charged the battery for 6-7H until fully 100% again 2 weeks ago, hoping that this will fix it. But unfortunately same problem appears again last week. Maybe there is something that is consuming the battery when the car supposed to be OFF, I don’t know. I noticed that if you due a Mazda APP enquiry about the status of your car, the car is woken up (the main driver display is ON with some information).

Currently I have the car scheduled for a check on all issue above at my dealer this week.

So far the Dealer was really nice and, at least on the phone, when we’ve spoked for the appointment and what problems I want him to look for, acknowledged back to me that, indeed they are also disappointed with the multitude of issues that CX60 seems to have. They have a lot of complaints from other Clients too. Even they were expecting a little bit more from Mazda with this car. My dealer is a sole Mazda dealer and not a multi brand dealer.

P.S. I have System Software 14012 installed, don’t know if this one is the latest. The car have asked me (I think end Jan or so) to perform an OTA. Clicked OK, and let the car to perform all the updates. Then the car restart fine, but I cannot say I saw any improvements.

Anyway, many thanks, and see you around.
Will keep you posted on my Service Visit.

Have been to Mazda Service mid. of last week with the above issues. Just drove the car for couple of more days to assess if things were really fixed.
Basically in the Service there have been couple of updates to different software plus some work on the car (charger, front suspension, extra grease, etc.). So ….

FIXED, Partially FIXED (acceptable) or Work in Progress FIXES proposed:
  • Electricity Range: now I can regularly see around 50 km available electrical range when the car is fully charged. Also the battery reserves drops now to 12-15% before the ICE kicks in. I think also the latest milder weather helps here (10 – 18 degrees).
  • Suspension: they offer to change (dumpers) with a softer version (up to me to decide if I want them) but they suggested to wait a little longer. There are some customers that have changed to a softer version and are not happy. They think another interim version might be offered soon. – I decided to wait and maybe do this together with the Doors Sound Fix.
  • Issues with the DAB not starting: FIXED.
  • Doors Closing Sound: will be FIXED (extra insulation to be done free of charge by Mazda Service). I need to schedule a separate appointment. – Maybe in May.
Need to say here that it seems that the latest cars (at least Diesel ones) are coming now in in Germany with fabric installed insulation. I noticed the difference in the Service – test done by the technician <my car (worse) vs. Service proposed fixed (better) vs Factory original installation (best)>
  • Wireless Charger: FIXED, I think was done via software. So far is working.
  • Line / Cruise / Other Systems Assist: Partially FIXED, maybe with the work done on the front suspension (changed something, additional grease). Better than before but still not ideal.
  • The 12V Battery: software update or something. For now we didn’t get the warning anymore. So far FIXED

NOT FIXED ones:
- Throbbing noise and Vibrations at 45-70 km/h speed: NOT Fixed, the car was warm enough and unfortunately the technician has not noticed the noise /vibration on the car, and could not documented it (video). He recognized that are issues with other cars and recommended me to make 1 video or 2 and send to the Service via email, as they need to document this for Mazda Head office. He told me they have a car scheduled end April for a drive shaft replacement. So hopefully more info – if the driveshaft replacement will be a FIX or not.
- Jerky movements in the transmission: unfortunately NOT Fixed yet. They say the Software update might fix it. Unfortunately Not.
- Refueling with Petrol: They said DONE, but really Not FIXED. The car still stops refueling when there is still a good 7-8 l petrol gap left to be filled in, which obviously requires extra time and effort.

Keep you posted.
 
Hi all,

I have a question regarding the summer tires, as weather is getting better and soon I will need to change to summer tires. I assume most of you too.

I would like to upgrade the original 235/50/R20 Bridgestone summer ones on 7.5J Homura rims with 255/45/R20 on a suitable rims set (I think 8.5 - 9.0 ones will go).
I am currently thinking between Michelin Pilot Sport 4 SUV and Conti SportContact 6. Have any of you any experience with them or have other recommendations? In case you already changed / planned to.
Also a question for the rims: have any of you upgraded or used a different set of rims. What are you recommending in the 20 inch area (8.5 - 9.0J that can easily accommodate 255 tires).
I would also need the rims to be certificated for the CX-60 (ABO in Germany - where I live), otherwise I need to make a TUV visit, which I don't like.
I got for winter MSW 41 Gloss Black in 20 inch 8.5J, offset 45, with ABO and Pirelli Scorpion Winter 2 Elect tires.

Many thanks for your feedback and recommendations.

P.S. I will put for sale the original 235/50/R20 Bridgestone summer installed on 7.5J Homura rims (with the original TPMS sensors too). Almost new - only 50km droved from dealer - home, and from home - service to change for the winter tires.
 
Hi all,

just got my CX-60 a week ago (early March 2023 built). I have some of the same issues with the car as most of you (EV range, low-speed vibration, stiff suspension set-up).
Has anyone tried hooking up an IPOD to the car's USB ports? Mine is not recognized by the car and is not playing. First, I thought it might be the USB adapter (USB-B to USB-C), but I tried playing music from a USB-C memory stick and the car did not recognize that either (MP3 files). Tried formatting the USB stick to Windows or IOS and that made no difference.

Does anyone have any idea how this issue can be resolved.

Thanks for the help!
 
Hi,

I could not find any claim with solution regarding the wind noise.
Let me tell what happened to me.
when I bought the new car, it was extremelly quite inside even at 140 km/h.
After 4000km, I can hear a wind noise from 80-100 km/h which it is not normal for a this type of car.
Someone else with this issue? Is there solution from dealer?
 
Hi

I used to play music files on my old Outlander using an SD card. This option isn't available the CX-60 since the SD card slot is used for the built in sat nav maps. I put the music files onto a 16GB USB stick, and using a USB-C adapter plugged it into one of the USB ports in the centre console. I straight away got some sort of message like 'USB device not supported. I tried a smaller capacity (4GB) USB memory stick, and it now works fine. You can browse, play, skip, etc files using the 'Command' and adj Volume knob controls.
I'm not sure what the largest size capacity memory stick is that the system will recognise.
 
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