Hi ASH8.
Do you have access to the tracking data on the Mazda CX60, a colleague had the misfortune of hitting a curb and the car now pulls to the right, not even the importer has the data we need.
Regards..

 

Not certain of what data you exactly need?

Basically, No I cannot track anyone's (owners) data for any Mazda.

If the CX-60 is pulling to the right then basic mechanical process is to get front steering inspected as I expect you/he would have a bent tie rod end and or adjuster rod, or could be worse, then is to check front wheel alignment.

 

Hi all,

Regarding problems with initial deliveries of CX-60 some of these are actually created by the middlemen not yet familiar with this new (and heavy) model.
In my case, the CX-60 PHEV was delivered to me with unusually high tire pressure, 2.9 bar on all four wheels.
It is too much pressure for any use case for front wheels for example.

Except one: the long time stationary storage of a heavy vehicle - to avoid deformation of its tires kept motionless and under load all of the time.
(In this case during lengthy sea-freight from Japan to Sweden)

This obviously should been rectified during post-delivery inspection but wasn't and resulted in less than ideal driving comfort.
Fortunately I discovered this in time to avoid any bad consequences of it.

So, the lesson learned - always check tires pressure, even on a brand new toy

Cheers,

 

(...)

1) There was a stop sale related to the non production install @ Mazda Japan factory of a 20 AMP Safety Fuse in rear of trunk in related to cars main Battery in CX-60 PHEV, hopefully ALL should have been rectified before being sold to customers with the installation of a 20 AMP Fuse module.
View attachment 71

2) All Shock Absorbers front and rear and the Front and Rear Sway Bars were installed @ Mazda Factory with not ideal specifications resulting of a bumpy wallowing ride comfort on undulating roads, and on paved roads a hard feel inside cabin resulting in unstable ride, The fix is to renew all shocks and sway bars front and rear.
(...)

Hi ASH8,

When inspecting the bottom of the trunk I also noticed that mysterious folded piece of paper with the VIN number alone lying on the very same position as on your picture.
Does its presence indicate that this fuse issue was fixed?

And one more puzzle, how one can learn whether there are correct stabilizer bars and schock absorbers fitted in the car?
With a new vehicle it is somewhat difficult to know what is by design and what is out of spec just by feeling.

Best!

 

If you message me your VIN I can check to see if your car was in the mix.
Sometimes (repeat sometimes) you might see a Genuine Mazda Part Number label on the sway bar and or shocks,
a full part number not abbreviated.

But yes looks to me the car was not correctly PDI by Selling Dealer as tyre pressures should have been adjusted down as they usually ship around 45 psi.

I would also check to make sure you have the correct Mazda Connect Firmware of 14004 or higher..
Need to know what Version Number is in car now.
1. Turn the ignition to ACC or to ON.
2. Select ”Settings” on the Home screen.
3. Select “System Setting”.
4. Select “System Information”.
5. Select “Version Information”.
6. See 'System Software'
Version Number like 1xxxx is revealed.

 

I would also check to make sure you have the correct Mazda Connect Firmware of 14004 or higher..

Hi,

The version is OK.
The rest of details sent via PM.

Best!

 

Hi all,
I'm new to the forum, having recently taken receipt of a CX-60 (in the UK). Mine was held up at the dealers in early September for ' a software upgrade.' I guess it was the firmware you refer to in this thread. I have checked and it is version 14004. How can I check whether mine was one of those that required replacement shock absorbers and sway bars, and the 20 amp fuse fitting, and if so whether they have been fitted?.

Any help would be very much appreciated.

 

Hi All,

I have owned my CX-60 now for a three weeks. There is an issue of the car consuming too much electricity and the range is about the half of the expected maximum range. The electricity consumption should be 17 kWh in average and in my case it is 40 kWh. I have a service check-up with software updates next week and let´s see if the electricity consumption problem will be fixed. I am also expecting the shock absorbers to be replaced at some point.

 

Hi jjarvela,

I can confirm I am having the same issue, the car consumes around 40kwh. I have the car from September and only first days it showed 58-60km. Then it all went down. I will be scheduled for a shock absorber change because I showed them a video with the car behavior on wallowing roads.

Can you please tell me what software updates are you doing for the battery range? I have been complaining to my dealer for about a month now.


Thank you!

 

"Mazda says that they want to add a logger to my ODB, to see what is happening " no need for that, car already records nearly everything, and even send anonymous data OTA for diagnoses.

 

Maybe, but for the issue that I signaled they don't. I am just telling you what I was informed and asked if I want to participate. The dealer specifically stated that this comes directly from Mazda.

 

Remember that heat/aircon steels lots of energy, maybe my readings caused because i preheat car when it charging.
Dont count on the meter, try to use trip A or B to measure distance,

 

What manufacturer refers to is WLTP-cycle: driving phases (52% urban and 48% non-urban) at average speed 46.5 km/h (top at 131 km/h) with ambient temperature +23 C (which is very important for battery capacity).

I guess, road lights, heating and A/C are not used.

More info: WLTP

 

Had mine 6 weeks and pretty pleased so far. EV range varies tremendously with where and how fast I go but so far averages 35 miles (56 Km) per charge. Hilly where I live. So fairly happy with that. Highway driving in mainly horrendous conditions non-EV is about 42 MPG.
Had a problem with screen wash sensor which distractingly lit up whole dash board, but fixed today (touch wood).
They also said there was a recall to "retorque" the roll bars. I'm guessing this is to counteract the wallow effect on some bumpy roads. Didn't notice anything on the short drive home but I'll let you know!

 

Welcome to the forum @UKPhil! Glad to hear things have been fixed with your CX-60. Aside from that how have you liked it overall?

 

Mazda know issue about gearshift, and working on software update.

 

Apparently, they took out the float in the washer reservoir and cleaned it. Took about 2 hours together with the retorque recall. How accurate a description that is I don't know. Not had a problem since, but dealer tells me Mazda UK have "demanded" (his words) a full explanation of the fault and fix.
They did ask if I'd put any "dodgy" screenwash in. I said I hadn't needed to, so if dirt was in there it was as a result of their PDI activity or Mazda build dirt. I've known them years so this was friendly banter--I think.

 

Thanks Phil, will mention this when my car is in for the retorque.

 

I'm not seeing the behaviour some of you are describing about when the IC kicks in as the battery depletes.
I run in "normal mode" almost exclusively apart from "Sport" when I'm joining a highway. This usually means the car is in EV and the battery runs down over 30 miles or so. At about "one mile remaining" I get a message that EV is cancelled and the IC kicks in. With regen, if I stop, EV will get me moving again if only for a few yard.
My recharge target is 100%. I've not figured out why I would want to recharge using the IC. Seems a waste of fuel compared to home charging!

 

My recharge target is 100%.

Assuming you are charging immediately before the ride?
Li-Ion battery simply hates to be stored fully charged for any extent of time, because this permanently shortens its service life (and more so at high ambient temperatures).

For the longevity, the optimal range is between 25% and 75% (however, it utilizes only 50% of rated battery capacity).

And the relationship between the rated and the real-life capacity may surprise some:

More gold nuggets like these you may find here:

Learn About Batteries

Battery University™ is a free educational website offering hands-on battery information.

batteryuniversity.com

 

Hi Phil, what does your battery gauge show when it gets to that 'one mile remaining' state?

 

Almost empty, then it goes to zero %. Never had a PHEV before so didn't really know what to expect, but this is feels right..
I do find the expected range very misleading. The other day I filled up and the battery was empty, miles from home. It predicted a range of 300 miles, for an eleven gall tank! At the end of a 130 mile trip it said 180 but the guage was well over half and the trip reading when I shut down said I'd done 43 mpg. Maybe it discounts the last 2 gallons or something to make you fail safe.

 

That's interesting, many others (including me) are seeing EV range drop to zero at about 20% on the gauge. Possibly some different version of code - is your car a recent one - got mine end of October.

 

...and for the range that seems typical too, I suspect a bug there as I see similar on mine. Given my long term average is over 50mpg it should show well over 500 miles on a full tank full.

 

Correction and apologies are required: Did a better observed battery depletion test today (thank goodness for radar cruise control!) When EV discontinued I had around 25 % battery but zero predicted miles. My dealer says this is expected behaviour. Apparently it is to ensure that at all times and in all driving modes the full number of horses are available. So when you go for that risky overtake you always have what you expect under your foot.
He had been to Japan for training, so I guess he's got it right.

If that is fine, then they should update the description, from 65km range, I am quoting the value from the certificate of conformity, to 35km estimation. If not, then that is deceiving information.

I have 71000km+ I saw tha battery at 0kmand 9%, or 6% or 4% and then switching to gas engine. This is not to save energy. You should have energy reserve, there is 17.8kw and they say that usable is only 16.2

They had training they know it b.s. How is that every other manufacturer states, i,e, 75km and you can do 60km ? How is that the difference is only 20% and in our case the difference is over 40% for most of us and in my case is 62%.

For the last week I get an estimation of 30-32km and can do only 23-26km. On a 17,8kw battery? Then list the car at 32km and then I know not to buy it.

Why when I have 20% battery on Normal mode I see the battery is charging from the gas engine? Why is the gas engine charging the battery without having the re-charge button on? Why does it re-charge when I have 20% ?

If they got trained I don't think they are telling the truth. They know that this is an issue but they are stalling. I am not. I have patience but my patience is running out. Why? Because you advertised the car as premium. Let's see premium actions, if not money back.

If I would have known the car had 35km I wouldn't have had paid 15k euro more, no. So, this is either cheating in descriptions or a problem with the car. If it is a problem with the car then replace it.

Issues:
1) Did the article above from mazda japan stated that the shock absorbers didn't meet the safety standards? So I am driving an unsafe car? Yes! ( Mine is acknowledged for shock absorbers replacement )

2)On top of that, I can only do 38-40% percent of the range in the description?

3) Gear-box sound from gear 1 to gear 2? ( They said that there are a few clients with this issue, but they don't have a solution at the moment )

4) Re-charging car when it has 20% battery?

There are two many issues to be able to say they delivered a product without issues? I bought a new product that should have minor software issues. I think they should own this and give the premium services they claim the CX-60 is. Replace the car for the clients having these many issues or money back.

 

Got mine end Sept. If I do a fancy sum of Kw and Gallons based on fuel costs I average 50-55 equivalent petrol MPG. Which I'm happy about, hence the moan about predicted range.

 

Cheers Phil; I think the % retained seems to be variable - possibly dependant on external temps (among other things). I've accepted it as normal behaviour until we hear otherwise. Maybe it'll actually improve a bit in warmer temps.

 

"Why when I have 20% battery on Normal mode I see the battery is charging from the gas engine? Why is the gas engine charging the battery without having the re-charge button on? Why does it re-charge when I have 20% ?"
Mine is definitely NOT recharging apart from normal regen. I asked about the point of the recharge button as it seemed a bit pointless. The dealership went into an embarrassed huddle, rang someone at Mazda UK . It seems all it does is ensure that if you are going into a low emission zone, or a quiet zone you can have a preset level of charge! Potentially recharging at highway speed is fairly efficient and overall its better to have charge for EV in stop/start and Urban conditions. I was an engineer before retirement and I can just about see the logic of that. Urban running in my CX5 petrol auto was pretty bad.
I cannot think how to prove this with all the variables involved, particularly as its getting colder. But I might try it over the next 2 or 3 longer trips and see what happens. Its only money!

 

I have also seen that behaviour of the battery % increasing without using the charge button, on the motorway. Not always (I'm not on motorway much) but it does seem to be a possibility. Like you say, far too many variables. If only they'd publish some more info on what to expect.

 

MT_09TM te rog mai multe informații cu problemele masinii tale ? M-ai speriat. Am plătit astăzi avansul pentru CX60 cu livrare Aprilie 2023. Mulțumesc.

 

My problems may not be on April 2023. I've listed all of them. I don't know what to say, more than I said until now. Except, we can celebrate that today at 3 degrees Celsius my 100% percent battery estimation was 28km and I managed 21km ))). I think it's either my car or some memory leak on internal calculations of range, or something is drawing way too much power on my car.

 

Am făcut test drive la dealer cu o mașină fabricație iunie 2022. Cu bateria 100% arata autonomie 49 km. Erau 10 grad Celsius. Am făcut 30 km. și mai arata autonomie electric 32 km. Singurele probleme pe care le-am observat au fost la transmisie. Șocuri și intarzieri la schimbarea treptelor .

 

Buna Marius.
Aceleasi "probleme" le-am observat si eu la a mea.
Legat de cutie, din cate am observat nu e ceva constant. Se intampla momente cand parca nu stie daca sa bage intr-o anumita viteza ( de obicei la vitezele mici cand circul incet sau incep sa accelerez) si apoi pur si simplu o smuceste ( nu e ceva care sa te sperie) dar fatza de o masina cu CVT se simte.
Referitor la baterie si autonomie.. eu am ajuns la concluzia ca bateria are xx Kw care dupa specificatiile producatorului, in conditii ideale de circulatie ar trebui sa ajunga @60 Km autonomie pur electric.
Totusi se aplica acelasi principiu ca oricarui tip de motor ... chiar daca e termic sau electric.. autonomia in km depinde de stilul si conditiile de condus. Astfel, daca ai un stil de condus sportiv.. acelerari dese .. trafic aglomerat... normal ca si consumul este mai mare..automat si autonomia mai mica. Cel putin eu asa patesc in Iasi.. dimineata cand duc copii la scoala .. ora magica cu trafic infernal.. estimarea calculatorului masinii imi zice @ 32Km autonomie.. am avut si 42 km ( mai la inceput) si a scazut pina 32 km mai nou...
Aseara am plecat din localitate.. cu bateria incarcata... imi arata autonomie 31 km electric... dupa @ 120 Km parcursi.. masina mi-a aratat 35 km parcursi pur electric si @1.5 kw recuperati. Bateria ajunsese la 17% incarcare. Acum imi arata 10:30 ore sa o reincarc pina la 100%.

Hello Marius.
I noticed the same "problems" with mine.
Regarding the box, from what I've noticed, it's not something constant. There are times when it seems like it doesn't know whether to enter a certain speed (usually at low speeds when I drive slowly or start to accelerate) and then it simply jerks (it's not something to scare you) but it looks like a car with CVT it feels.
Regarding the battery and autonomy.. I have come to the conclusion that the battery has xx Kw which according to the manufacturer's specifications, in ideal driving conditions should reach @60 Km pure electric autonomy.
However, the same principle applies to any type of engine ... even if it is thermal or electric ... the range in km depends on the driving style and conditions. Thus, if you have a sporty driving style.. frequent accelerations.. congested traffic... naturally the consumption is higher.. automatically and the range is lower. At least that's how it is for me in Iasi.. in the morning when I take children to school.. a magic hour with infernal traffic.. the car's computer estimate tells me @ 32Km autonomy.. I also had 42 km (more at the beginning) and it decreased to 32 km newer...
Last night I left the town.. with the battery charged... it shows me 31 km of electric range... after @ 120 km travelled.. the car showed me 35 km travelled purely electric and @ 1.5 kw recovered. The battery had reached 17% charge. Now it shows me 10:30 hours to recharge it to 100%.

 

Nu toată lumea știe Engleza.