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CX 60 - Should I buy??

11566 Views 103 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  Southeastern
Hello all,
Just new to the forum.
I have recently put a deposit on a CX60 that is due in May 23.
I took a demo on test drive for 2 weekends for fuel economy checks, comfort and so on, and I was happy.

I came across this forum after I paid my deposit and after reading about the unfortunate problems you are having, I am thinking it might be a mistake. 🤦‍♂️

Could I get some advice on what to do in relation to cancelling the order, or could these problems be resolved before they leave the factory on the future builds.
Thanks in advance
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All,
I am new to this forum, and I have my CX-60 Takumi since the 16th of January. I only drove 850 km because we went on vacation right after I got the car. I had to drive to Luxemburg airport (from NL via BE) in wintery snowy and slushy conditions with temperatures below freezing. The car performed well, with excellent airco, steer and seat heating. And because I had to leave this brand new car in a parking garage I made sure I could do so with a battery charged to 70%. This I accomplished via the (re)Charge button and worked excellent (I had set the limit of 70% at home).
We stayed in a hotel before the flight next moring at 07.00, and went twice between hotel and airport on EV mode (airco/heating on), which left the battery to about 50%.
When we came back from our holiday, car started normally and no problems whatsoever.
To this point I do not experience all the misery that has been depicted in the forum. Yes, the drive train is sometimes noisy, suspension is a little stiff, the navigation menu's and working of it are cumbersome, and I still need to find my way in the various menus.
(By the way: you can send a destination from the MAZDA APP to your car!)
But all in all, I like the car. I call it "The Beast", because that's what it is.
My average fuel consumption (from the start) is now around 6.8 l /100km, but that is also due to the fact that during daytime you may only drive at 100 km/h in NL. On the other hand, in BE I drove the normal permitted speeds (120 km).
I charge when possible at home, and because I have two homes (one in BE and an appartment in NL) I have used the home wall socket in BE and a charge cable coming from a true WallBox pulsar at the appartment.
The electric range is perfectly reasonable, given the circumstances I drive in. In BE it froze -11 degrees (C) and we have some hilly roads! Getting 2000kg against a steep hill will off course consume electricity or fuel.
I also believe that the numbers presented regarding fuel consumption are quite good; they take into account how you drive, and what your average is. They are updated while you drive.

For us the real proof of the pudding will be pulling a caravan during our vacation. And yes, I will probably take a jerrycan of petrol with me, because I believe that consumption of fuel will be quite high and the fuel tank is rather small .
The way MAZDA has created the tow bar is excellent; you just push a button, the tow bar flips down, and you just need to close it. When you don't need it anymore, push the button, the tow bar unlocks itself, and you can push it back under the car.
In NL the discussion about a CX-60 diesel does not exist. Diesel cars are "banned", both by taxes when buying as wel with road tax which is triple the amount of a petrol car.
So all in all: I am happy for now, despite all the somewhat negative comments in this forum.
The car is spacious, looks well, has excellent safety features, nice adaptive cruise control (okay, you need to get used to it), very good HUD, excellent blind spot warning, etc., etc.
So, would I still buy one? Sure, why not!
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Just set charge target to lowest value which is 30% if I remember rightly, with current electrical prices in the UK, its actually not that uneconomical and in the winter when range is lower, its actually more economical.

You can never use the full battery in EV mode as the car will ALWAYS charge to maintain at least 20-30% as it needs to return battery to maintain horsepower figures.

Try overtaking in a car you have gotten use to having 350bhp in and then find out mid overtake you only have 180BHP. Many will die.
Just set charge target to lowest value which is 30% if I remember rightly, with current electrical prices in the UK, its actually not that uneconomical and in the winter when range is lower, its actually more economical.

You can never use the full battery in EV mode as the car will ALWAYS charge to maintain at least 20-30% as it needs to return battery to maintain horsepower figures.

Try overtaking in a car you have gotten use to having 350bhp in and then find out mid overtake you only have 180BHP. Many will die.
I do not think this is entirely correct, certainly the 30% “reserve”.
If this would be true, then it would show in the charge level of the battery.
My experience is different in the sense that when you drive electric (EV), at a certain moment the car via the dashboard will announce it is cancelling EV mode (and thus going into the “normal mode”).
Indication of battery level varies with temperature; with low temperatures indication may still be between 5 and 10%; nice temperatures like we have now it will show around 5% or even less.
But never nowhere 30%, unless of course if you drive in charge mode with a limit of minimum 30%.
”Problem” is also that you can’t see whether the car uses both EV and ICE at the same time when trying to obtain certain power.
Maybe when you use the info display, but normally that is not on
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It is correct.

Mazda have said they will release software to give more of the battery usage, however the 'range' is determined on 20-100% of battery, the reserve is the power reserve. I said 30% because occasionally my car would self charge to 30%, but sometimes 20%. but it would always selfcharge even during a trip, or the next time the car fired up if the battery dropped before 20% and it didnt self charge during driving. Sometimes it would self charge once, and then not again until the following morning. You know its self charging as the big rumble and increase of engine load happens, its audible anf you can feel it through the seat with all the vibrations. Its a ridiculous machine that no one will ever actually understand as the algorithms are too complex and Mazda won't talk about them.

Anyhow, I'm sick of talking about the PHEV, I was so glad to get rid of the hunk of junk, its just a distant memory now thankfully.
Ah,
in that case: if you are no longer driving a PHEV CX-60, then you should withdraw from this forum and stay quiet. And anyway: how can you know this 30% if it isn’t shown somewhere?
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Why Petal? its not a PHEV only forum . . I drive a Diesel CX60, and this is a 'CX60 problems' thread. If you require a PHEV only one , go and start one, and yet it still wont stop ANYONE discussing the car, being that this isn't 40's Germany or North Korea so you're gonna be all out of luck telling people to 'withdraw and stay quiet', that seldom works does it?

I know the 30% from driving that hunk of junk for six months and monitoring it, and talking to MANY Mazda technicians being that it was constantly in a range of workshops, some of which got trained in Japan to be able to work on these cars so fairly well informed.
True or not, I still believe you should stick to Diesel talk and refrain from remarks about the PHEV, if you don’t drive it any more. You are obviously frustrated with the PHEV and happy with your diesel, which is ok .
Enjoy your evening and your diesel.
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